Feb 25, 2015 2:21PM

Runway Report: Jean Genius At Marques Almeida @ LFW


Marques Almeida delivered a collection of wavy shapes for AW15 that absolutely shredded. We were expecting denim, of course, but instead of doing jeans, the design duo manipulated their favourite fabric into all sorts of weird yet wonderful forms: a twisted up mini dress with frayed hems, an oversized t-shirt and maxi skirt both in Pepto-Bismol pink, an amazing triple-denim ensemble (jeans and a bustier and an anorak!). 

Elsewhere, the collection explored colourful brocades and silver, tinfoil-like fabric that made us thinking about scrunched up Easter egg wrappings. Ribbed knitwear came fast and loose in Crayola brights, while jeans were cropped and kick-flared or super long and spiralled around the legs. The wet-haired models looked like fashionable sea creatures that had arrived on land, in a Wong Kar-wai movie in the future (aka 2046).

There is an inventiveness in Marques Almeida's work: brocade is ruthlessly deconstructed, denim becomes eveningwear and a swath of fabric tied around the neck becomes the focal point of an outfit. Certified fresh. 

Nadia Bailey