Jan 04, 2016 12:23PM

The Cool-Girl Legacy Of Kim Gordon's 90s Streetwear Label

X factor.

Kim Gordon's label X-Girl may have only existed in its OG form between 1993 and 1998, but it has mad staying powerCelebrating femininity, self-autonomy and girl power, the 90s brand was one of the first to fill the girl gap in the streetwear market, with simple designs that were repped by a generation of indie heroes/babes. Chloë Sevigny and Kathleen Hanna were big fans of X-Girl, with the former starring in its first runway show and arty campaign videos. This calibre of supporters and collaborators leaves behind a cool-girl legacy that makes the label a cult collectable into 2016.

X-Girl was an offshoot of X-Large, the brand created for dudes by dudes — Eli Bonerz, Adam Silverman, and Mike D of the Beastie Boys — that hit the scene in 1991. The underground streetwear label's graphics played on the graf and rap culture of 90s LA, making it an instant hit with hip-hop heads and street fashion freaks alike.

In 1993, off the back of X-Large's srs success, the boys brought on Kim Gordon and stylist Daisy Von Furth to develop a ladies version of the label. The brand's fitted t-shirts and A-line dresses provided girls with streetwear staples that actually fitted them and acted as an alternative to played out 90s grunge styles. "There's this whole tendency with skater looks that everything needs to be oversized," Kim said, in a recent retrospective, "but we wanted to do stuff that was more fitted for girls. Stuff that was a little modish, more like 60s meets preppy; A-line skirts and A-line dresses, which was what we thought would flatter the most body types."

Together, Kim and Daisy designed flattering, comfortable and wearable garments with a heavy vintage inspiration. The raglans, bubble text and mini skirts were the antithesis of mainstream 90s style, while collaborators like Sofia Coppola and Spike Jonze helped elevate the brand to icon status.

Due to family and #life commitments, Kim and Daisy sold X-Girl to X-Large's Japanese distributor B Industries in 1998, but the brand still has loyal followers all over the world who spend large chunks of their time trawling the internet for vintage X-Girl. We hung out with three such ladies in NY recently and went through their extensive personal collections as our own small tribute to the legendary label.


Photos and text: Ava Nirui